|Dimensions||15 × 6 × 6 in|
“The wines taste like the villages they come from.” – Brian Kalliel, Wine Director of Mélisse
This Burgundy is exceptional for several reasons. Not only in the fact that, as its Appellation suggests, Passe-Tout-Grains AOC, literally “pass all the grapes”, it is not 100% Pinot Noir which a vasty majority of the red wine from this region are (instead 80% Pinot Noir & 20% Gamay), but that despite its less than “weighty” or prestigious Appellation, this wine is prodigiously a wonderful, distinct display of Pinot Noir, Gamay, & terroir, as only Burgundy can provide, & winemaker Koji Nakada can produce. Generally considered everyday, easy drinker, super-sippers to idly quaff while Burgundians waited for their more serious wines to age, hence, as the name suggests, even if its not literally the case, a jumble of unthoughtfully fermented fruit of whatever can be collected from the vineyard. Generally held to be a civilized, French equivalent to the U.S.’s “jungle juice”, which will resonate with our customers who attended school, & therefore parties, in the 21st century.
Lou Dumont’s wine however has a caliber of craftsmanship, subtlety, & thoughtfulness that truly tells a tale of two regions, & legacies for that matter. It can be seen as a bridge between Beaujolais & Burgundy, with some of the structure & nobility of Burgundy, but the accessibility of Beaujolais, as a wine that, in its idiosyncratic upretentious drinkability, is an every day wine. It is not hard to imagine how this could be a recipe for jammy, oak & fruit saturated swill. The key the wine’s quality here then is the producer. If some are more serious than others, Lou Dumont is straight up integrity. Beautifully perfumed, it has a delicate play of earth & ripe cherries followed by an absolutely mouthwatering acidity, which envelops your palate ecstatically (not drowning it in a tidal wave of red fruit but teasing it out). There is an unmistakble finesse to the experience of drinking this light & nimble Burgundy. It is a wine to be eaten with, applicable to an array of foods, from charcuterie, to salmon, to being devastatingly appropriate for a holiday feast. It is a wine to be delightfully shared between friends, & yet, a wine that offers complexity, & is undeniably restrained in structure, free from any of the excesses its constituent varietals are vulnerable to. It is truly a wine to live with. In blending the varietals, at once noble & salt of the earth, & literally bottling un-fettered terroir, this wine is a little slice, or rather, glass of grace. Nothing is excessive or overdone, neither oak nor extraction. Which is why this Passe-tout-Grains is such a lovely, satisfying, complex red.
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